Traditional Bugis Wedding

Traditional Bugis Wedding


On the third day in Makassar, South Sulawesi, we were invited to a traditional Bugis Wedding. Bugis is one of the three indigenous groups of people in South Sulawesi. The amazing thing about this invitation is how dramatically different it was from a wedding invitation and preparation in the US. No save the date card and RSVP one month before, no assigned seating, no rented country club, no tuxedo or white wedding dress with a train. Instead, we arrive as unknown foreigners invited 1 day prior to the wedding. The traditional clothing was spectacular, the colors rich, the jewelry and adornment astonishing. The wedding was between Andi Anto Patak (groom) and Andriana Amir (bride). Andi Anto Patak is from a royal family in the Luwu Kingdom in Palopo, South Sulawesi. The wealth of the community is derived primarily from intensive agriculture. My local friends from Makassar said, “In March it is a flood of fruit…the most delicious fruit you have ever tasted.”

The wedding occurred over a number of days. The ceremony was about 100 people and the celebration was at least 500 people. There were a number of rituals that occurred before the ceremony itself. The evening before the ceremony the couple was separated and the woman sat on a stage to receive Daun Pacar leaves (similar to natural henna) on her palms. The attending relatives took turns administering the leaves to her palms and wishing her well. This ritual frequently occurs for the groom as well (but not in this case). Women are known to stay in their rooms for about a week… Yes, an entire week! The worry about leaving during the week before the wedding is concern about accidents…I’m not convinced this is the origin of this tradition but I will investigate further.

The ceremony itself was gorgeous. The clothing worn is known as Baju Bodo and has been worn in weddings in South Sulawesi for thousands of years. Even with the religious practices shifting to Islam (in about 1300 CE) the clothing has stayed the same. Parts of the ceremony have changed over time, however. The incidence of offerings to deities has changed to offerings to the couple and to Allah. There is still an exchange of rice (which is a symbol of wealth and protection) and gold (or in some cases cash). There was traditional drumming and gong music as the groom processed into the ceremony. The couple was kept separate until the final documentation occurred (the bride was hiding in her room). The documentation included an agreement with each other and an agreement with Allah. We sat down in the front and observed as the Imam and groom discussed the agreement and the groom signed off on all of them. We also watched as the father of the groom carefully counted the cash that was presented to the father of the bride. This is known in the anthropological world as “bridewealth.” The bride’s father wept as he held the Imam’s hand. It was quite touching.

Shortly after the money was counted and the documents signed we were shuttled into a small room where the bride was sitting on her bed hiding underneath a white cloth. We looked around to see only three other people. We were alarmed by the fact that these people were willing to let unknown foreigners into such an intimate setting! Does anyone have thoughts about this? I have plenty of ideas…but I would love to hear yours. Anyway, shortly after our entrance the groom arrived to exchange rings and to exchange forehead kisses. The food was served and the place cleared out fast (it was about 110 degrees).

Later I learned that the post-marital residence pattern is traditionally matrilocal (couple moves in with the wife’s family). Sometimes the couple chooses to build their own home (unilocal residence) as they get older. In the end however, the couple will house their parents. Because of the previous matrilocality the grandparents are much more likely to move in with a daughter than the son.

What a spectacular day this was…I can’t imagine spending it any other way!